– GASTRONOMIC CENTRE OF THE COSTA BLANCA
It’s not just the huge influx of tourists that is clogging the roads around the pretty coastal town of Moraira. There is also a steady stream of gastronomes intent of having a super dining experience and with its seemingly endless supply of excellent quality restaurants, Moraira is the bon vivant’s mecca.
One such elegant, top restaurant is actually just off the beaten track and in truth might be a bit difficult to find as it isn’t really signposted, but be diligent – Restaurante Casa Pepe 1, Calle Haya, is a first class restaurant.
Regular readers may remember me writing about Casa Pepe 1 a few of years ago after I had been invited to the opening of the newly designed and completely refurbished restaurant. As an ex-restaurateur myself who loves fine dining out I’m always interested in visiting a classy eatery, but that is not the main reason why I went and also why I write another article about them now. You see Enrique is a fellow wine writer, writing for a Spanish newspaper and also two Spanish magazines, and also a great lover of fine wines. Thus Enrique and I are kindred spirits and of course always have a lot to talk about.
In truth it’s a long time since I’ve visited but recently we were able to go, and fortunately take the last table available, the others all having been filled or reserved prior to our arrival. I knew Claire would love the dining experience and I also knew we’d both be interested to have a look at Enrique’s amazing bodega. Over 600 different bottles of wine can be found reposing is perfect conditions – but more of that later.
Our aperitif drink was a glass of Cava – I have a bottle of Puig Munts Gran Reserva Brut Nature sitting in front of me now, thanks to Enrique’s generosity. This is a cava of quality made by a personal friend of Enrique whose cava house has been making fine, traditional cavas since 1940 and whose current incumbent, Francisco Gibert continues the line. Beautiful flute glasses, well filled as is the correct way with cava, were delivered to the table along with homemade breads superb artisan olive oil and a selection of three different salts of the world. Our dining experience had a splendid start.
We were in a fishy mood and so a white wine we thought would do the trick. The wine list at Casa Pepe 1 is more of a tome than a list and with its leather binding it could easily pass for an ancient manuscript written painstakingly beautifully by wine making monks of a different era. For me it was fascinating reading but I really wanted a recommendation for the man himself, knowing that it would be excellent quality and not over expensive.
Enrique’s selection was a wine that I had not heard of from a little known Denominación de Origen on the high ground of the island of Mallorca. Pla I Llevant is the DO in question and in his book, The New Spain - A Complete Guide to Contemporary Spanish Wine John Radford states ‘… it cannot be long before the world wakes up and takes notice [of the wines of Pla I Llevant]’. Well as Cork Talk is read not only here in Spain by the 150,000 people who buy the CBN Group’s titles but also by untold numbers throughout the world on the internet, I like to think that I’m doing my bit for this quality fledgling area of production.
I’ve tasted some Pla I Llevant wines before and have been impressed, Vins Miquel Gelabert Chardonnay 2005 has impressed me still further. It’s a Chardonnay that has hade the benefit of French oak fermentation and ageing on its lees. The result is a creamy, buttered wine which retains it fruit and its zest. This is no log-heavy bruiser whose oak dominates the bottle, blotting out fruit and freshness like some of the Australian Chardonnays of the late 80s and 90s whose winemakers sought only oak.
This Chardonnay is a real find for me and I’m going to make sure I have some in stock for a future tasting. A lovely golden colour in the glass it has a fruit driven nose with perfectly integrated and subtle oak. There is a touch of banana and cream on the palate with maybe a lick of natural yoghurt. The buttery flavour comes from the light to medium toasting of the barrica and there is a lively acidity that freshens the palate whilst drinking. Super wine, I hope you can find it as Pla I Llevant wines are often a rare bird in bodegas – my advice is to ask your local to get some in, this may make them start to look more seriously at this quality area of production as well.
Enrique invited us to enjoy a super chocolate liqueur whilst he showed us into his Aladdin’s cave. His bodega is obviously his passion – he has the wines kept at exactly the right temperature and humidity allowing them to age with grace and to develop further in bottle – oh for such a bodega in my house. His list is extensive to say the least. He has a whole page dedicated to the famous wines of Vega Sicillia, one of which sells for 1,400 euros. He has Pingus from Ribera Del Duero and L’Ermita from Priorat, whose prices I didn’t dare ask, but he also has wines that are of superb quality and which will not cost an arm and a leg. In short it is true to say that all the major top wines of Spain are represented in Enrique’s thickly glassed bodega as well as Dom Perignon, Krug, Chateau Mouton-Rothschild and others from different countries. Truly a wining and dining experience.
PS There are only a few seats left for our special wine tasting with classical music evening at the elegant Restaurante Puerto Blanco, Calpe. A glass of Cava from Dominio de la Vega will greet you as you arrive along with beautiful classical and modern music from the duo Mosaico, courtesy of Claire Post, soprano and flautist and John Anthony classical guitarist. I will present the award winning white wines of Bodega Valdesil, DO Valdeorras and the superb reds from Bodegas Sierra Salinas, DO Alicante whose ultimate wine retails for over 50 euros a bottle. Restaurante Puerto Blanco has created an excellent six-course dinner and once again we will be celebrating some of the finer things in life. The cost of this splendid evening is only 40 euros per person. Reservation only, please call me on 629 388 159.
Colin Harkness can be contacted by email at colin@tinlizzietours.com and on the internet at www.tinlizzietours.com.
